HMS Warrior 1781

September 22, 2007

Where I am so far…….

Filed under: Frames,Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 11:31 am

I haven’t posted in a while, so this should bring us up to date.

I finished cutting out and beveling all the rest of the square frames and then glued them all into the jig (frames 1, 2, 37-42, A, B, S-U). Not much to say here it went pretty much like all the rest of them.

and finally, a nerd with a ship. 🙂

Today, I finally got up the guts and glued the keel in, kind of made me nervous as this is a no-turning-back stage.

I put a drop glue in each keel slot and then stuck the keel on,

I then clamped an aluminum level along the keel to make sure that there was no bowing of the keel and that all was level and square. Note, I only installed a batten to only one side of the keel, as this was all that was really needed to keep the frames stable for getting the keel in and out.

And that’s it, we are all up to date.

June 29, 2007

Keel-holding jig

Filed under: Frames,Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 11:35 pm

I spent the evening building the keel-holding jig. It seems like a fairly simple affair, but it’s a little more involved than first advertised. Getting everything centered on the board and accurate is key and I’m a perfectionist of sorts.

Centering it all up:

The finished jig with keel in place and 3 frames dry-fitted in:

and from the stern:

I have since moved the top brass bar just underneath the sternpost as I was having trouble getting the keel in and out with it up high. It’s much easier to manipulate now. I am too lazy to take a picture though. It’s late…..

May 27, 2007

The finished keel

Filed under: Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 9:05 am

finally………

Sternpost and Finishing the deadwood

Filed under: Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 9:01 am

Like the stem, the sternpost has a complicated series of tapers. I spent a few days figuring out how best to shape it. Finally I settled on just ripping the whole thing out on the table saw using the miter gauge.

Here’s side and front views:

As I stated in an earlier post, I think the the practicum’s “pseudo” mortise and tenon joints are are silly and add no extra strength, not to mention being difficult to make. I glued the stern deadwood to the keel directly with no reinforcement, hopefully that won’t come back to haunt me later.

Gluing on the stern deadwood:

The false keel, hog and boxing pieces

Filed under: Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 8:59 am

I glued the false keel on, tapered it to match the first and last segments and then put the rabbet on keel with the scrapers again damn those things come in handy.

Keel/false keel/stem/stem face piece detail:

Look here: Keel discrepancy page

Sometimes, the practicum just makes things harder than they need to be. If you are building in 3/16, the hog is an example of this. Instead of gluing two strips of 3/8 together and then sanding down to 3/64 . Just rip a 3/64 piece off the edge of some of your pau marfin stock and use that. Yeesh…..

I made up the small blocks of wood, one for the lettered frames, one for the numbered frames and one for frames 21, 22.

I then used these block as spacers when putting the hog pieces on.

Making up the hog like this is strictly non-prototypical, but I’m sticking with the practicum. This all should be cut from one construction contiguous with the apron. Maybe next time………

Once all the pieces were glued on, I put a protective piece of masking tape along the keel and then roughly sanded them down to width with scroll sanding strips.

I then mounted the keel between upside down pieces of aluminum angle and fine sanded them to width with by sliding a sanding block along the angle aluminum.

May 26, 2007

Tapering the stem

Filed under: Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 7:37 pm

OK, this was the part that really scared me, screw it up and you need to make the stem all over again. I already had rebuilt it once, I didn’t want to do it again. I had a really hard time visualizing how to taper the stem, and the practicum is definitely less than clear on this issue.

The stem tapers from 9/32 at the top down to to 3/16 where it joins with the keel, the knee of the stem also tapers forward to 3/16 along the leading edge. This is a complicated series of tapers and I had a hard time wrapping my head around it at the the beginning. Again I used a cabinet scraper for the taper, it takes off a very fine layer, leaves the wood very smooth and the edges hard. I can’t recommend the method enough.

I placed some 3/16 red lining tape along the leading edge, and then just tapered down to it. I really don’t have any good pix of this, just this one of the stem and the scraper:

Once the taper was finished, I put the rabbet on the stem, again using the scraper. I “rabbeted” the apron and then glued it to the stem, and the stem to the keel.

Better pictures to follow.

Making the keel segments

Filed under: Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 7:10 pm

OK, here’s the silly part of the keel. I had a nice perfectly straight piece of pau marfin that I could have just used as the keel and no one would have been the wiser. Instead, I cut it up into little segments just so I could scarf it all back together and hope it comes out as straight as the original strip. The scarfs are only visible as vertical lines from the side of the keel and the actual joints will otherwise never be seen (covered by the hog and the false keel), but it’s done and I know that the keel is all scarfed together more or less like it should be and that makes me happy. I showed it to my wife, her comment, “and this is fun?”

All the pieces laid out:

scarfs

I decided to just butt the stem into the keel and not scarf it in, The Rev. shows how to make a “fake” scarf in the practicum (the keel portion of the joint is cut separate and then glued on) – this is silly, either scarf it or not. I chose not to, nobody will ever be the wiser.

Here’s the first keel segment, top and side view, you can the see the taper from 9/32 to 3/16, (the perceived curvature of the aluminum angle is a photographic anomaly of the lens of my camera, it’s actually straight):

and dry fitted to the stem (before gluing on the the stem facing piece):

Gluing up the pieces of the keel, clamped between two aluminum angle pieces. I clamped a piece of scrap 9/32 strip along the top of the keel pieces to keep them from bowing upward.

I tapered the first and last segments using a cabinet scraper . Skip the sand paper and go with the scraper. I held off on gluing the first segment to the main portion of the keel body. I glued that to the stem first, tapered the stem to fit the keel segment and then attached it to the keel. It’s easier to taper the stem when it’s not attached to a 3 foot keel, but you really need the first segment to the stem in order to taper it correctly.

The stem facing piece

Filed under: Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 4:50 pm

Rev. Romero recommends cutting the stem facing piece out using the scroll saw rather than using a thin strip and bending it to shape – he says the pau marfin is too stiff. I don’t believe it. As I see it, cutting a thin strip to a complicated curve would be difficult and inaccurate. So I didn’t. I ripped off a piece of pau marfin from the edge of my stock. Not only is it sufficiently supple to use as the stem facing piece, it is perfectly smooth on both sides and of consistent thickness – something I would have had difficulty doing on the scroll saw.

Ripping the strip:

ripping facing

Hand fitting, the pau marfin strip is not stiff at all:

hand fitting facing

Dry fitting with clamps:

dry clamp facing

In order to remove as much tension from the piece as possible, I decided to soak it in water and then shape it first (I suppose I could have steamed it too) and then fit it to the curve on the plans and let it dry:


and finally, glued on and clamped up:

March 29, 2007

Keel discrepancy page added

Filed under: Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 9:03 am

I have added a page describing discrepancies between the Romero and Hahn keel plans.  Take the link to the right in the “pages” section.

March 18, 2007

Stern deadwood

Filed under: Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 7:43 pm

I spent the day making up the stern deadwood, not too tough and pretty straightforward cutting on the scroll saw. Joints are tight, just barely visible. I almost cut this out of the 9/32″ Pau Marfin, but luckily noticed that it is actually made out of 9/64 stock. This isn’t mentioned anywhere, there is just one image that happens to give the dimensions, I’m glad I found it. Unfortunately, I had no 9/64 Pau M. so I milled down one of the 9/32 boards in the thickness sander. The whole thing turned out pretty nice I think.

I haven’t made the Stern Post yet. I’ll probably wait until I’ve finished the keel as the tapers need to match.

Y’know something I can’t figure out in the practicum is what is the purpose of putting a mortise and tenon joint along the
stern deadwood and sternpost as Romero describes it? How is adding a strip of wood along the inner sternpost to act as tenon to the actual sternpost any stronger that just gluing the one to the other? Perhaps I am missing something, but shouldn’t the actual tenon be part of the inner stern post (that is, intrinsic to it and not just glued on) otherwise it is just as weak as any other joint? Does this make for a stronger joint? I don’t see how it could. Instead of this pseudo-mortise-tenon joint, I’ll probably just drill up through the keel into the dead wood and sternpost and peg them (even though I have the sneaking suspicion that glue alone would be sufficient for strength).

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