HMS Warrior 1781

September 13, 2008

Sanding continues…

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 9:30 pm

The inital sanding of both port and starboard sides is finished… roughly….. it is all sanded down to about 80 grit.  I’ll sand it further after I’ve completed the stern framing.  Right now I am doing the initial sanding of interior, which is rather difficult and cramped.  I’ve tried a number of different methods for this including a palm sander (too big), a detail sander (ineffective), sanding blocks (tiring), a Dremel (time consuming), what seems to work the best so far considering the cramped space and complex curves is a set of cabinet scrapers, straight and curved.  They work quite well.  That being said,  it is still a dull and tedious…. some would say a life-sucking…. procedure.  I can’t say I enjoy sanding…….  I had to go to New York city for a week, it was a nice break.

January 20, 2008

Suspense….. of sorts

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 9:41 pm

It looks like I may have to suspend work on the Warrior for a while. As the the winter becomes colder, the humidity has dropped precipitously and I have experienced two frame splits over the past two days (the last time the humidity got this low a few weeks back I had 4 frame splits). I am having a hard time keeping the humidity up high enough even with a humidifier and as I am at the stage where I am doing the initial sanding of the hull I am afraid the vibrations of sanding will just increase the likeliness of more splits. I have stabilized the hull with a “strap” clamp of sorts. It’s frustrating, hopefully the humidity will come up again soon.

January 8, 2008

Enemy me (update stern cants & hawse timbers)

Filed under: Frames,screw ups,Vol. 1 — admin @ 9:08 pm

The stern cant frames are done – have been for a while now – I’ll post on them in a day or two.

I’ve been working on the hawse timbers and I have to say….

The enemy of GOOD is BETTER……..

The port side hawse timbers are finished and glued in place……..  I looked at the starboard timber assembly and thought I can just touch that up a little bit to make it a tighter fit against frame 62, well needless to say……. I screwed it up, over sanded the whole angle of the thing…. went from good to worse in hopes of doing better.

So I’m cutting the starboard hawse timbers out again……. sigh……

Jeff
I am my own worst enemy sometimes

The following was added to this post on 7 October, 2008.

I am updating this post with pix I never posted, but am finally getting around to.  🙂

Stern Cant Frames

Stern cant frame bearding line:

Installing the stern cant frames took a number of “hacks” to keep everything in place, from clamps to spales to tooth picks and rubber bands:

Frame 52 does not reach all the way to the builing board (as the wing transom sits on top of it), it is a complicated shape but easy to make with the oscillating spindle sander:

Frames 52 are the last stern cant frames, pre-installation:

Post-installation:

Hawse Timbers

Rev. Romero recommends making up each hawse timber as alminate of three pieces, I said nuts to that and just bought some 5/16″ stock and milled it down to the correct diameter, just seemed easier to me.

Here are the port side timbers roughly finished and tacked in place with rubber cement, I have marked on the trimming line.

Before gluing up each hawse timber, I fit them together and to the hull using rubber cement to check their angles and fit.  I have to admit that these babies were tough to make, getting the correct angle for fitting up against the stem was the toughest part and I over-sanded them on several occasions. Needless to say I have a box of ruined hawse timbers to show for my efforts.

The bitter remnants of my mistakes, a veritable boneyard of failed hawse timbers:

Once they were roughly shaped and prefitted, I glued the timbers together but not to the hull, I then finished shaping them as a whole unit. To shape the hawse timber assembly I used curved cabinet scrapers primarily, seemed to work better than sandpaper.

Here’re the finished hawse timbers (with the keel taped for sanding):

December 19, 2007

Ironing warped frames, Part 2

Filed under: Frames,screw ups,Vol. 1 — admin @ 7:44 pm

Ok, so it worked. They stayed stable. I’m pretty happy about that.

I can now finish installing the stern cant frames.

December 18, 2007

Ironing warped frames

Filed under: Frames,screw ups,Vol. 1 — admin @ 9:42 pm

I tried ironing some of the warped frames tonight with the steam turned off, it appears to work. I’m going to let them sit overnight and see how straight they are tomorrow……

Warped stern cant frames

Filed under: Frames,screw ups,Vol. 1 — admin @ 9:03 am

As I stated in the previous post I put off beveling the cant frames because of assumed but not real difficulties in creating the bevels. Well the consequence is that winter happened and the humidity in my shop plummeted resulting in warping of my stern cant frames as they sat in a box on the shelf. They warped in a similar fashion with a little twist up of the foot. On all but a few of the frames it’s not that big of a deal and the frames straighten out once installed but there are a few I have had to re-make which is a pain in the ass. I tried to straighten some of them out by steaming or soaking in water and then “pressing” them but this really didn’t work out to well, easier to just glue up some more blanks and cut replacements out.

Only thin frames warped, the thick ones have remained stable.

I think on future models I won’t make the frames so far in advance of installing them so as to avoid warping such as this.

December 17, 2007

Installing Bow cant frames

Filed under: Frames,screw ups,Vol. 1 — admin @ 10:32 pm

Shaping (beveling) the cant frames is a little tricky, the bevel twists on the way up some of the forward most frames, it kind of gave me the heeby-jeebies and so I put off finishing this step for a while (with consequences to be detailed in a later post). When I finally got around to doing it I discovered that it was quite easy to do and once I got my head wrapped around the idea of the twist it was relatively intuitive.

The “twist” frames – look simpler than than they really are, it’s hard to see the twist here – I should have taken a picture of one before I installed them:

Installing the frames was a different beast altogether and took longer than I thought and wasn’t as easy as I had anticipated. I made a critical error (of sorts), I went ahead and sanded in the foot angle (that is the angle at which the foot of the cant frame attaches to the deadwood) on all of the frames ahead of time so that I could go ahead and glue in the frames more rapidly (and really because I had my disk sander out and handy). This worked out fine for most of the frames, but what I discovered was that I had over-sanded the foot on the last two (most forward frames) on the right side, leaving a gap. It’s not a hugely critical error, I filled the gap with wood glue and the frames are stable. No one will see these joints as the gar board planks will cover them (thank God) but it bugs me that I did it. When doing the stern cant frames I will sand each foot individually just before fitting to avoid this in the future. Incidentally, the disk sander worked just fine for this step. I bought a variable speed control switch for it so that it turns at a lower speed (otherwise it takes off wood to fast).

The two “gappy” frame foots (feet?) – again a little hard to see in this pic:

Holding everything in place as the glue dried was frequently a little tough and required using the spales at funny angles and places.


A few of the frames were short (I think due to photocopy quality), but not too much and a few shims brought everything up to snuff. you can see the shims just under the spale:

Finished installing the bow cant frames:

and with the boxing pieces installed:

December 3, 2007

Bow cant frame misalignment

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 9:37 pm

While dry fitting the bow cant frames I noticed that some of the more forward frames were “over-riding” the keel rabbet:

What I found when I placed a level along the keel is that, it dipped a little bit forward. By placing a spale underneath it I can easily push it back up the 2 or 3 mm to where it should be, ie. straight. It doesn’t take much pressure.

Cant frames realigned (frames just dry fitted and loose):

December 2, 2007

Split Frame

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 8:30 pm

I noticed that one of my frames had split yesterday, unfortunately it was in the dead center of the ship.

split1

up close:

split2

I needed to close this again and fairly quickly to keep the split from spreading. I tried the Rev. Romero’s trick of placing a few slips of wood between the frames around the split and then clamping them, but because of the location (the middle of the ship in the boxing line) I could not get enough pressure to close the gap without breaking the slips of wood or the surrounding frames. what finally worked was a long bar clamp place on the outermost frames. This allowed me to put enough pressure right along the line of boxing pieces without harming any frames. I made sure there was plenty of glue in the joint first, and then left it clamped for 24 hours

split3

all closed up now and I’m a happy boy again.

split4

November 7, 2007

Cutting out cant frames

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 8:42 pm

I have spent the past few weeks cutting out the cant frames, both bow and stern and have just finished tonight. Time has been at a premium of late so it has taken far longer than I wanted or anticipated. I still need to shape them, which should take me another couple of months at this rate.

All of the bow cant frames cut out – but not shaped/beveled:

All of the stern cant frames cut out – but not shaped/beveled:

And once again, here’s what really kills me about using the Hahn method of frame construction – look at this mound of wasted wood left over, sure it is an easy way of making frames, but yeesh, just look at all of that firewood, expensive cherry firewood………….

…… sad, really……….

OH, BTW, I am up to date with my posts now.

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