HMS Warrior 1781

May 31, 2007

Up to date…..

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 7:26 pm

OK, I’m pretty much up to date now.

I made up this stack of frames last week:

I’ve since, trimmed them up and rubber cemented on the frame patterns. I’m debating whether I’ll go ahead and cut them out now like I did the last bunch or just finish making this series of frames (3-36, C-R).

The next series of frames uses a different jig for cutting out the blanks.

Making frames – Part 2

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 7:19 pm

I don’t deviate too much from the practicum for the rest of the frame construction….. I think…… it’s been a while since I read it and I’m pretty much winging it now.

Line up the center of the trimmed frame blanks,

frame pattern lightly tacked down and aligned, I then flip it over and outline the position of the frame on the pattern in pencil. I can then apply rubber cement to the frame and stick down onto the pattern (over an improvised light box – long piece of tempered glass laid over two bar stools with a light underneath:

frame patterns rubber cemented onto the frames, I’ve been trying to align each pattern about 1/8 inch from the bottom “corners” of each blank so that the “futtocks” will line up when the frames are all in place on the keel (more or less):

with the center portion of the paper removed, ready to be cut out on the scroll saw:

my first stack of frames all cut out:

I’ve decided to not cut out the keel notches until I’ve got more frames finished and I’m closer to actually mounting the frames on the board.

Making frames – Part 1

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 2:49 pm

Like I said in my last post, the practicum method for making up the frame blanks seems needlessly involved and time consuming. Here’s how I’m doing it and it seems to work just fine.

I made 4 copies of the frame blank gluing pattern and had them laminated.

I then bought 9 small 1/2 pound anvils that are about 3 inches long. I lay the frame blanks on the laminated patterns and glue them together with one or two anvils on each piece depending on its length. The anvils keep the pieces from moving and hold them absolutely flat. The glue sets up in about 10-15 minutes.

I can then take the frame off the pattern (the glue won’t stick to the plastic lamination).

I lay out the two frames on the overlapping pattern, get them lined up just right, and trace around the top one (to make sure I get it back in place correctly after I’ve put the glue on) and then glue them together.

Frames glued together:

One of my original problems was getting the frames to lay flat when gluing the two together, they tended to curl up at the edges. To address this I bought two pieces of marble tile. They are perfectly flat and heavy and I can sandwich the frame pattern and the two glued up frames between them. I then put 4 one gallon cans of paint and a 20 lbs. railroad fish-plate on top (total 79.6 lbs). This provides enough weight to keep the frames flat as the glue dries.

The whole process takes a lot less time than Romero’s (about a half an hour total) and is a lot less involved, but just as accurate if you are careful. Of course the actual frame pattern for cutting out the frame on the jigsaw will still need to be glued on with rubber cement, but I think I have simplified his whole process.

I usually let the frames dry under pressure for a few hours or over night. Here are a few finished frames with the overlapping bits trimmed off:

May 29, 2007

Starting the frames

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 7:18 pm

I read the chapters on how to make up the frames. It all seemed a little “involved” to me, but I went ahead and made two according to the way the good Rev. describes in the practicum. I wasn’t satisfied with the results. First off, I bought Romero’s supplemental plan with his layout of the frame billets, but no matter what, I couldn’t really get a good fit against his plans – I went back to Hahn’s original layout. Second, it’s a lot of rubber cementing and photocopying – seems like a waste of glue and paper (and time). Third, the practicum didn’t really describe how much weight you need to put the frames under to keep them from curling up along the edges (turns out it’s a lot – at least if you are using Cherry wood). Fourth, he has you putting pins into the billets to hold them in place when gluing up – is this really necessary if you are careful? Call me impatient, but this all just didn’t work for me. so I started experimenting……….

The frame height jig, cutting out frame billets

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 7:17 pm

I made up the frame height jig as described in the practicum, pretty straight forward.

Cutting out the frames is also pretty straightforward, I’ve been doing it in spurts. It’s a lot of work, easy but time consuming.

May 27, 2007

The finished keel

Filed under: Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 9:05 am

finally………

Sternpost and Finishing the deadwood

Filed under: Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 9:01 am

Like the stem, the sternpost has a complicated series of tapers. I spent a few days figuring out how best to shape it. Finally I settled on just ripping the whole thing out on the table saw using the miter gauge.

Here’s side and front views:

As I stated in an earlier post, I think the the practicum’s “pseudo” mortise and tenon joints are are silly and add no extra strength, not to mention being difficult to make. I glued the stern deadwood to the keel directly with no reinforcement, hopefully that won’t come back to haunt me later.

Gluing on the stern deadwood:

The false keel, hog and boxing pieces

Filed under: Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 8:59 am

I glued the false keel on, tapered it to match the first and last segments and then put the rabbet on keel with the scrapers again damn those things come in handy.

Keel/false keel/stem/stem face piece detail:

Look here: Keel discrepancy page

Sometimes, the practicum just makes things harder than they need to be. If you are building in 3/16, the hog is an example of this. Instead of gluing two strips of 3/8 together and then sanding down to 3/64 . Just rip a 3/64 piece off the edge of some of your pau marfin stock and use that. Yeesh…..

I made up the small blocks of wood, one for the lettered frames, one for the numbered frames and one for frames 21, 22.

I then used these block as spacers when putting the hog pieces on.

Making up the hog like this is strictly non-prototypical, but I’m sticking with the practicum. This all should be cut from one construction contiguous with the apron. Maybe next time………

Once all the pieces were glued on, I put a protective piece of masking tape along the keel and then roughly sanded them down to width with scroll sanding strips.

I then mounted the keel between upside down pieces of aluminum angle and fine sanded them to width with by sliding a sanding block along the angle aluminum.

May 26, 2007

Tapering the stem

Filed under: Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 7:37 pm

OK, this was the part that really scared me, screw it up and you need to make the stem all over again. I already had rebuilt it once, I didn’t want to do it again. I had a really hard time visualizing how to taper the stem, and the practicum is definitely less than clear on this issue.

The stem tapers from 9/32 at the top down to to 3/16 where it joins with the keel, the knee of the stem also tapers forward to 3/16 along the leading edge. This is a complicated series of tapers and I had a hard time wrapping my head around it at the the beginning. Again I used a cabinet scraper for the taper, it takes off a very fine layer, leaves the wood very smooth and the edges hard. I can’t recommend the method enough.

I placed some 3/16 red lining tape along the leading edge, and then just tapered down to it. I really don’t have any good pix of this, just this one of the stem and the scraper:

Once the taper was finished, I put the rabbet on the stem, again using the scraper. I “rabbeted” the apron and then glued it to the stem, and the stem to the keel.

Better pictures to follow.

Making the keel segments

Filed under: Keel,Vol. 1 — admin @ 7:10 pm

OK, here’s the silly part of the keel. I had a nice perfectly straight piece of pau marfin that I could have just used as the keel and no one would have been the wiser. Instead, I cut it up into little segments just so I could scarf it all back together and hope it comes out as straight as the original strip. The scarfs are only visible as vertical lines from the side of the keel and the actual joints will otherwise never be seen (covered by the hog and the false keel), but it’s done and I know that the keel is all scarfed together more or less like it should be and that makes me happy. I showed it to my wife, her comment, “and this is fun?”

All the pieces laid out:

scarfs

I decided to just butt the stem into the keel and not scarf it in, The Rev. shows how to make a “fake” scarf in the practicum (the keel portion of the joint is cut separate and then glued on) – this is silly, either scarf it or not. I chose not to, nobody will ever be the wiser.

Here’s the first keel segment, top and side view, you can the see the taper from 9/32 to 3/16, (the perceived curvature of the aluminum angle is a photographic anomaly of the lens of my camera, it’s actually straight):

and dry fitted to the stem (before gluing on the the stem facing piece):

Gluing up the pieces of the keel, clamped between two aluminum angle pieces. I clamped a piece of scrap 9/32 strip along the top of the keel pieces to keep them from bowing upward.

I tapered the first and last segments using a cabinet scraper . Skip the sand paper and go with the scraper. I held off on gluing the first segment to the main portion of the keel body. I glued that to the stem first, tapered the stem to fit the keel segment and then attached it to the keel. It’s easier to taper the stem when it’s not attached to a 3 foot keel, but you really need the first segment to the stem in order to taper it correctly.

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