HMS Warrior 1781

July 22, 2007

Beveling practice

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 8:13 pm

I finished cutting out frames 3-6,C,D, 27-36, N-R. All of these frames still come off the first frame cutting jig, but unlike 7-36 which had flat edges, these need some pre-beveling of the edges before being glued into the jig. This is what I bought the oscillating spindle sander for (see this post). It, however, takes a bit of practice. Now usually I would just jump in and start screwing things up without any practice, however I would really like to get on with the framing – so I have broken with tradition and spent a few days practicing putting an edge bevel on to the off-cuts of the frames. I think I’ve got it. Of course now that I’m ready to move onto bevelling the actual frames I have to go out of town for 5 days – work……… it just gets in the way of the really important things in life……… 🙂

July 12, 2007

New category added

Filed under: misc,screw ups — admin @ 10:26 pm

I added a new category called  “screw ups” tonight.  If you click it, it will take you to all the posts where I clearly show the world what a ham-fisted idiot I can be…….. and hopefully prevent someone else from doing the same.

What’s that quote……..”better to remain quiet and be thought a fool than to speak up and prove it”?

I hate quotes.


and again……..

Filed under: Frames,screw ups,Vol. 1 — admin @ 9:48 pm

Ok, page 62 of the practicum very clearly lists the 1/8″ stock for frames 21,22 – man, I completely missed that. However, it may have worked out in my favor (or at least not really have mattered). The reason frames 21 and 22 are thicker is that in the Hahn plans these two frames are thin but are spaced out wider than the other frames – it is an anomaly of how Mr. Hahn drew out the frames in his plans and isn’t very noticeable at the original scale of the plans in 1/8″, but at 3/16″ scale the widened gaps between frames 21,22 and the surrounding frames is glaring – therefore Rev. Romero widened these two to make the spacing less noticeable at 3/16″ scale.

On page 54 he lists the size stock for the boxing pieces as 5/64 wide and 15/128″ wide (the boxing pieces are the “spacer” pieces on the keel for the frames).

Looking at the keel boxing diagram, the spacing of most of the frames is 5/64 (hence the 5/64″ stock), however he uses the 15/128″ stock for spacing frames 21,22 – which is still a little wider apart than the other frames. On my ship I used only 5/64″ stock for all of the boxing pieces – the extra width of my frames 21,22 makes up for the difference in spacing, and all of the spacings of my frames on the keel are of equal width – it’s all a wash, I traded actual width of spacing for width of frame – it’s 6 of one; half a dozen of the other. As I stated in an earlier post, if Mr. Hahn had stuck with a more prototypical framing pattern based on the original framing plans of the Alfred in the NMM originals this wouldn’t be a problem. Don’t get me wrong, these are very nice plans but…………

you can clearly see the difference in spacing of frames 21,22 on the original frame diagram on the framing jig from Hahn’s plans, with the (more or less) even spacing of my frames:

Ok, K-20 is a little wide and 19-20 is a little narrow – that’s just poor cutting technique when I cut the jig, but at the keel side (which is ultimately more important because the last 3 inches or so of the frame ends that go into the jig will end up being cut off anyway), you can see the even spacing of the frames:

I’m not gonna sweat it. I like my way better – even if it was unintentional (and essentially a screw up). As the good book says, ” let he who is without sin cast the first stone, yada, yada, yada”

By the way, if you buy the practicum, check to make sure that no pages are missing – I found 3 missing from mine last night that helped to contribute to my confusion on this point.

Also keep an eye out on eBay – I recently picked up volume 2 and an extra copy of vol. 1 for a grand total of $13 usd – you can’t beat that bargain with a stick.

July 10, 2007

Frames 21 and 22

Filed under: Frames,screw ups,Vol. 1 — admin @ 7:14 pm

Here’s what I did for frames 21,22. Romero never really tells you how thick to make them (at least not that I remember seeing) he just cryptically says they are of “special thickness”. I made them with one “sister” from 3/32″ stock and the other from 3/16″ stock – so they have a thick side and a thin side and the resultant frame is 9/32 thick (as opposed to the 3/8″ or 3/16″ of the “regular” frames). Just make sure that the same sister on each frame is made from the same thickness of wood. I used 3/32 pau marfin stock as the hog “spacer” block for each frame, so that all of the frames are evenly spaced on the keel. I kept the original spacing on the framing jig and shaved off even amounts from each side of the frames 21,22 to fit the jig.

Overall the difference in frames is not noticeable unless you are really paying attention:

Rev. Romero admits that the frames are not exactly prototypical. I bought copies of the original plans (which includes the framing diagram) for the HMS Alfred from the NMM (and from which H. Hahn based his drawings) and all of the frames are of equal thickness on the original plans – I am not quite sure why Mr. Hahn chose to make them of two different thicknesses (every 3rd one thick) for the model unless he did not have access to the original framing plan. If I were to make another Warrior again in the future, I would consider a more prototypical framing pattern.

July 8, 2007

All done with the flat frames

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 8:30 am

I have now finished all of the flat frames and glued them into the frame holding jig:

Interestingly, I found a box of matchsticks that are precisely the correct width between frames….. kinda handy when positioning those things in there. At first I was rather dubious of the Rev.’s spales, but made them anyway and in actuality they turned out to be quite useful after all.

Next up the rest of the frames…….. bevel and all………so much to do……… so little time………….

July 4, 2007

Finishing a flat frame

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 4:47 pm

So with the keel notch cut out, I extend cut off lines from the frame pattern to the inner sides of the frame and then pull off the frame pattern and rub the rubber cement off it.

Someone at the warrior group put me on to the next bit. Using double sided tape, I attach the frame to my glass sheet, the double sided tape usually lasts for about 4 frames (8 sides):

Using another piece of glass with a piece of sand paper glued to it, I then sand the flat face in a circular motion to smooth it out.

This keeps the faces flat and the edges sharp. When done, the frame is ready to be glued into the framing jig.

I’ve spent the day sanding my stack of frames – 22 so far.

Cutting the keel notches

Filed under: Frames,Vol. 1 — admin @ 10:45 am

I have been experimenting with different ways of cutting the keel notches. Here’s what is working best for me, right or wrong.

first, I compare my “reference” notch, to the frame I want to cut to ensure that my notches all come out even:

I then cut down to the vertical extent of the notch on the lateral borders:

Then I sweep back and forth between these with the scroll saw, nibbling away at the wood in between:

I can then lightly sand the notch with a sanding stick made from scrap keel stock, usually though it takes just a little or no sanding.

In this way I am able to get a very accurate and even notch, it takes about a minute. I find this easier than using the table saw (as someone suggested),and more accurate than cutting them the way I did the notches in the framing jig. I am using an Olson PGT no.5, 12tpi blade in the scroll saw to mill out these notches. It’s a fairly thick blade so it’s tough (considering it is cutting here side to side instead of forward as usual) and since the teeth are precision ground instead of cut/stamped, it cuts straight instead of at an angle which helps me to keep the walls of the notch perpendicular when cutting the lateral extents (a problem I had when initially cutting the notches in the framing jig).

Once all is done, I double check it on the frame height jig and it’s done (for now):

Hey, it works for me, your mileage may vary.

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